Sunday 30 March 2014

19 – 20 March 2014 – Kashan, Iran

After the chaos and noise of Tehran, we spent a couple of days in the peaceful city of Kashan.  The city is famous for its traditional mansions and is a centre for carpet weaving.

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The staff of Ehsan Guesthouse having breakfast in the courtyard

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This noble rag collector looked like he was descended from one of Iran’s Mongol invaders

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No Ruz (Persian New Year) decorations for sale on the street

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The bazaar of Kashan was full of shoppers making last minute purchases for No Ruz

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Praying for favours at a shrine in the bazaar

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Large flat sheets of bread cooking on hot stones in a domed brick oven

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Picking the stones out of the cooked bread

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In the bazaar, we saw carpet designs drawn on large sheets of graph paper pinned to the walls.

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Ancient dyer’s workshop off the bazaar

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Skeins of wool drying on makeshift wooden racks

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The Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timche – a bazaar hall with a soaring, beautifully decorated dome

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The Hammam-e Khan - an old bathhouse converted into a tea shop and restaurant

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The Soltani Mosque on the edge of the bazaar

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We spent an afternoon visiting the historical mansions of Kashan.  The mansions are traditionally made out of mud brick with rooms leading on to several courtyards and badgirs or wind towers which draw warm air up and out of the house keeping the house cooler.

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Abbasian House

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The Soltan Amir Ahmad Hammam was a beautifully tiled bathhouse

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The manual water pump

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The roof of the bathhouse

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Skylights on the roof

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Let light into the bathhouse

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Tabatabaie Residence

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The Masjed-e Agah Borzog, a mosque constructed from mud brick with tiled minarets

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The Fin Garden

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Qajar era fresco

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Fin garden water source where we had lunch

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In the Fin Garden museum was a re-enactment of an infamous political assassination with this cryptic display

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Friday 28 March 2014

16 – 18 March 2014 – Tehran, Iran

Tehran is the capital of Iran, with a population of 15 million.  It was chaotic, noisy and a sea of concrete, but we enjoyed the many museums and the monumental bazaar.

Iran is the only country in the world governed by its Shiite clergy

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We had to change some Euros into Iranian Riyals at Tehran’s Imam Khomeini Airport.  This is what €375 looks like in Iranian Riyals (IRR 15,450,000)

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Our first meal at the Alborz Restaurant (Tehran’s best kebab restaurant) with Amir from Tehran and Johann from Sweden cost us IRR 2,600,000!

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The entrance to the Tehran Bazaar

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The bazaar was massive with a labyrinth of stalls and shops clustered according to the products they sold

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One of the many mosques adjacent to the bazaar

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Hanging out at the Dessert Shop with delicious carrot, pistachio and saffron ice cream

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Artefacts recovered from Persepolis in the National Museum of Iran

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The tranquil Park E Shahr gave us a much needed break from the noise and traffic of Tehran

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The snow covered slopes of Mount Tizin, a favourite with skiers, are clearly visible from the city centre

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Some of the glorious mosaics dotted around the city centre

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A young couple with their house on the main road

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The Sephasalar Mosque is the largest mosque in Tehran, with an entrance, multiple minarets and domes lavishly decorated with floral and calligraphy mosaics.

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It’s hard to distinguish the murals from the real thing sometimes

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We spent a morning visiting the Golestan Palace Complex

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Marble throne protector

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Royal emblem of the Pahlavi dynasty

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Iranian art comes in many forms

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Tehran’s overcrowded metro

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Murals on the walls of the former US Embassy, now known as the US Den of Espionage and occupied by a militia group

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Our favourite exhibits at the National Carpet Museum

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How carpets used to be made….

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Yes, these are carpets too!

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The streets of Tehran were peppered with nationalistic, political and religious propaganda

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Sign outside Bank Melli branch

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