Sunday, 30 March 2014

19 – 20 March 2014 – Kashan, Iran

After the chaos and noise of Tehran, we spent a couple of days in the peaceful city of Kashan.  The city is famous for its traditional mansions and is a centre for carpet weaving.

P1170260

The staff of Ehsan Guesthouse having breakfast in the courtyard

P1170114

P1170311

P1170119

This noble rag collector looked like he was descended from one of Iran’s Mongol invaders

P1170174

No Ruz (Persian New Year) decorations for sale on the street

P1170351

The bazaar of Kashan was full of shoppers making last minute purchases for No Ruz

P1170374

Praying for favours at a shrine in the bazaar

P1170173 

Large flat sheets of bread cooking on hot stones in a domed brick oven

P1170127

Picking the stones out of the cooked bread

P1170129

In the bazaar, we saw carpet designs drawn on large sheets of graph paper pinned to the walls.

P1170131

P1170373

Ancient dyer’s workshop off the bazaar

P1170136

Skeins of wool drying on makeshift wooden racks

P1170143

The Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timche – a bazaar hall with a soaring, beautifully decorated dome

P1170356

P1170365

The Hammam-e Khan - an old bathhouse converted into a tea shop and restaurant

P1170368

The Soltani Mosque on the edge of the bazaar

P1170385

P1170386

P1170390

P1170433

We spent an afternoon visiting the historical mansions of Kashan.  The mansions are traditionally made out of mud brick with rooms leading on to several courtyards and badgirs or wind towers which draw warm air up and out of the house keeping the house cooler.

P1170332

Abbasian House

P1170230

P1170190

P1170194

P1170205

P1170292

The Soltan Amir Ahmad Hammam was a beautifully tiled bathhouse

P1170235

P1170236

The manual water pump

P1170251

The roof of the bathhouse

P1170242

Skylights on the roof

P1170257

Let light into the bathhouse

P1170240

Tabatabaie Residence

P1170267

P1170281

P1170272

The Masjed-e Agah Borzog, a mosque constructed from mud brick with tiled minarets

P1170315

P1170321

The Fin Garden

P1170399

P1170400

Qajar era fresco

P1170403

P1170421

Fin garden water source where we had lunch

P1170407

In the Fin Garden museum was a re-enactment of an infamous political assassination with this cryptic display

P1170420

Friday, 28 March 2014

16 – 18 March 2014 – Tehran, Iran

Tehran is the capital of Iran, with a population of 15 million.  It was chaotic, noisy and a sea of concrete, but we enjoyed the many museums and the monumental bazaar.

Iran is the only country in the world governed by its Shiite clergy

P1170002

We had to change some Euros into Iranian Riyals at Tehran’s Imam Khomeini Airport.  This is what €375 looks like in Iranian Riyals (IRR 15,450,000)

P1160698

Our first meal at the Alborz Restaurant (Tehran’s best kebab restaurant) with Amir from Tehran and Johann from Sweden cost us IRR 2,600,000!

P1160701

The entrance to the Tehran Bazaar

P1160728

The bazaar was massive with a labyrinth of stalls and shops clustered according to the products they sold

P1160733

P1160729

One of the many mosques adjacent to the bazaar

P1160749

P1160808

Hanging out at the Dessert Shop with delicious carrot, pistachio and saffron ice cream

P1160864

Artefacts recovered from Persepolis in the National Museum of Iran

P1160757

P1160762

P1160766

P1160774

The tranquil Park E Shahr gave us a much needed break from the noise and traffic of Tehran

P1160780

P1160792

The snow covered slopes of Mount Tizin, a favourite with skiers, are clearly visible from the city centre

 P1160795

P1160783

Some of the glorious mosaics dotted around the city centre

P1160826

P1160827

P1160829

A young couple with their house on the main road

P1160875

The Sephasalar Mosque is the largest mosque in Tehran, with an entrance, multiple minarets and domes lavishly decorated with floral and calligraphy mosaics.

P1160854

P1160850

P1160856

It’s hard to distinguish the murals from the real thing sometimes

P1160877

We spent a morning visiting the Golestan Palace Complex

P1160896

P1160911

Marble throne protector

P1160885

Royal emblem of the Pahlavi dynasty

P1160894

Iranian art comes in many forms

P1160969

P1160972

P1160965

Tehran’s overcrowded metro

P1160980

Murals on the walls of the former US Embassy, now known as the US Den of Espionage and occupied by a militia group

P1160981

P1160987

Our favourite exhibits at the National Carpet Museum

P1170014

P1170065

P1170018

P1170059

P1170022

P1170062

P1170017

P1170056

P1170055

How carpets used to be made….

P1170027 

Yes, these are carpets too!

P1170098

P1160737

The streets of Tehran were peppered with nationalistic, political and religious propaganda

P1170078

P1170077

P1170005

Sign outside Bank Melli branch

P1170089

P1160833

P1160786