Week 23 - Zambia – South Luangwa National Park to Malawi – Liwonde National Park

We slept in on Monday morning because in the middle of the night we had been woken up by the hippos grunting and snorting. We could also hear something outside munching on the grass. We tried to look out of our windows but it was too dark to see. When we looked out of the window in the morning, we could see vervet monkeys in the trees and elephants in the garden. On the way to the restaurant for breakfast we went past several elephants. They seemed to be all over the place. After breakfast we organised our move from the chalet to the safari tent. Our tent was great. It had a concrete verandah and had twin beds and bedside table. Out the back was our outdoor bathroom - an area surrounded by bamboo screens with a shower, basin and toilet. We had to store our food in the communal kitchen to keep the baboons and elephants from breaking into our tent to steal it. However the elephants were hanging around the kitchen and tent area so it was after 11.00 am before we were able to move into our tent. There was a lot of excitement as a big bull elephant had lain down under a tree for an afternoon snooze near the restaurant. We went for a bit of a walk around the camp area and then to the lagoon where we saw a family of banded mongeese and a couple of elephants.

At 3.30 pm we went on an evening game drive. We had a cup of tea and some slices of cake before jumping on to our game viewing vehicle with our guide and driver Malama and spotter Aaron. Before we had reached the Mfuwe entrance to the park we had seen an elephant (who stood on his hind legs to reach some succulent leaves), puku, white fronted bee-eater, African fisheagle, yellow baboons and vervet monkeys. Inside the park we drove over the Luangwa River where we saw hippos and a 3 metre long Nile crocodile. Then we saw a Crawshay's zebra (no brown shadow stripes), great white egret, common impala, lionesses and young male lion next to the remains of a buffalo kill, an African white backed vulture, a hooded vulture and a waterbuck with a yellow billed oxpecker. We stopped for a drink on a grassy river bed two hours into our game drive just as the sun was setting. After our drink we set off again, this time with Aaron manning a strong spotlight. We saw a night jar, giraffes, spotted hyena, rust spotted genet, African civet, and a white tailed mongoose. We were just on our way out of the park when a small leopard ran across the road in front of us. So all in all it was a very fruitful game drive.

We went for dinner once we got back to Flatdogs Camp. After dinner we were escorted back to our tent and Tyson (the night watchman) showed us a hippo who had come up into the camp to eat "sausages" from the sausage tree. We also watched the hippo "make toilet" on a bush – he dispersed his dung with rapid flicking of his tail!

On Tuesday we made it to the restaurant just in time to gulp half a cup of tea before heading out on our combination walking safari/game drive with Robbie our guide and Jones our scout, who was armed with a semi-automatic rifle. We drove some way into the park, parked the vehicle next to some scrub at the edge of a small clearing and got out. While Jones was loading his rifle, Robbie pointed out some Lilian's lovebirds and some long tailed glossy starlings. Then we began our walk. We walked in single file with Jones and his rifle leading the way. Robbie showed us how to identify zebra, giraffe, puku, impala, porcupine, civet, hyena, elephant and kudu droppings and how to distinguish between buffalo, giraffe and zebra hoof prints. The civet droppings showed how a particular tree was germinating from excreted seeds. We walked for a couple of hours, stopping to look at various birds, trees and animal droppings. The little five are the ant lion, leopard tortoise, rhinoceros beetle, elephant shrew, and buffalo bird. Robbie told us about the seven year life cycle of the ant lion and how they excrete by shedding their skin. We saw a termite mound of the type which grow fungus. We were able to get quite close to a dazzle of zebras before they became uncomfortable and moved away. Back in the vehicle, we spotted hippo, buffalo, jacana (sometimes called Jesus birds because they appear to walk on water), bushbuck, waterbuck, lions, white browed coucal and yellow baboon. On the last part of our drive we looked at a rhinoceros skeleton next to the lagoon and came across a large herd of buffalo crossing the road. Every so often one of the buffalo seemed to panic and the rest of the group would follow suit, galloping across the road in fright. We stopped to admire a pair of African fish eagles and as we did so, Keith caught a glimpse of a beautiful civet with yellow and black markings slinking into the bushes next to the vehicle. We headed out of the park spotting a hammerhead, African gymnogene (or harrier hawk, which changes colour of its face from yellow to red when excited and has a double jointed knee to allow it to put its talons in any direction into holes in trees to capture snakes, lizards, and baby birds), Retz hermit shrike and about thirty elephants. Back at Flatdogs Camp, Keith went for a walk with the camera. He saw hornbills, baboons, vervet monkeys and blue waxbills. After a swim and relax by the pool where we talked to a Dutch family, Keith went to the lagoon where he saw female puku, the mongeese and a water monitor climbing up a tree.

In the early hours of Wednesday morning, we were woken by the sound of hippos making toilet, tramping and munching through the garden. We arrived at the restaurant at the same time as the Dutch family only to discover that they had forgotten about us and had packed away the early bird breakfast of cereal and jams as everyone had left for the game drives. The waiter started putting the crockery, cutlery, cereals and jams back out again and as soon as our backs were turned, the monkeys ran inside the restaurant and started stealing the cereal. They were very bold and we spent a lot of time chasing them away from the table. The waiter took the cereal back into the kitchen so one of the monkeys stole a dish of jam instead! He wasn't able to run very fast holding the jam in his front paws so he dropped it and we were able to retrieve it.

After breakfast we talked to the Dutch family. They were driving to Chipata to drop off their vehicle (which they had rented in Malawi) and it was being driven back to Lilongwe which was our next destination. They contacted the car rental company and arranged for us to be given a lift in the vehicle from Chipata to Lilongwe.

We went back to our tent and collected our back packs and met Geoffrey (our driver) at reception. We loaded our packs into the back of a very beaten up Toyota 4WD. It had a piece of chip board instead of a rear windscreen and one of the windows in the very back was made out of a clear plastic bag. The road to Mfuwe was not bad – it was terrible. There were two sections of tarred road but the rest of the road was unsealed, and littered with rocks and potholes. Geoffrey drove most of the 130 kms at 30 kms per hour so it was almost four hours before we arrived covered in a fine layer of red dust at the Crystal Springs Hotel in Chipata where we had agreed to meet the Dutch family.

We paid a quick visit to the supermarket and changed our remaining Zambian Kwachas into Malawian Kwachas. The largest denomination note we got was 500 Malawian Kwachas – equivalent to around USD 3 so we had big wads of cash. Then set off for Lilongwe with David from J&K Car Rentals. From there the journey was a breeze, the border crossing was painless and the road was tarred and straight.

We arrived at Lilongwe at 2.00 pm and David dropped us off at the Mufasa Lodge. To our horror it was full and the next hostel that we tried was also full. We went to the Budget Lodge and managed to check into a dingy room with twin beds and shared bathroom. Then we went out to find out about transport to Monkey Bay. We walked to the Lilongwe Bus Station via a couple of local minibus stands. We walked across the Lilongwe River and on the banks we could see some markets and a shanty town with people bathing in the river.

On Thursday morning we decided to try and catch the early bus to Monkey Bay and we caught a minibus to the Lilongwe Bus Depot. We saw a guy getting bashed up by a crowd because he had been caught stealing. We arrived at the bus stop at 7.30 am and the bus was already three quarters full. We managed to get some seats at the back which had heaps of legroom. A young trendily dressed preacher spoke and sang to the bus in Chichewa and took donations. The trip took four and a half hours passing numerous small villages and roadblocks. Whenever the bus stopped it was mobbed by people selling drinks, samosas, fruit and vegetables. We met Robert from the UK who was a part owner of Mufasa Rustic Lodge (called "Rustic" because no electricity) at Monkey Bay where we were heading. At Monkey Bay village we drove 500 metres on a dirt track to the Mufasa Rustic Lodge and got our first view of Lake Malawi. The setting was stunning with a 50 metre beach between two headlands, blue water, a huge baobab, and no people apart from the staff. We climbed up a steep goat track to the top of the kopje behind the camp. We had views over the adjacent bay, an island over the channel, Lake Malawi as far as the eye could see, rice paddies on the other side of a swamp, and behind us the Monkey Bay settlement. There were dassies on the rocks below us and we could see African fish eagles in the distance. We had lunch with the staff at 5.00 pm! Then we spent the next couple of hours having a beer with Robert while they prepared dinner. We ate dinner by candlelight and at around 7.30 pm and after chatting for a while, we went to bed.

On Friday we woke up as soon as it became light. Keith went for a walk while Suzie stayed in bed. After breakfast we walked to the harbour where we saw the weekly Ilala ferry and some baboons in the trees near the harbour. We went and had a look at a rather dilapidated boat called the Chauncey Maples and then we walked across the airstrip to the Venice Beach Backpackers to have lunch and see if we could use the internet. Back at Mufasa, we had a swim in the lake and Keith went for a paddle in the canoe.

After breakfast on Saturday, we walked into town to catch a matola (light pick-up truck) to Cape Maclear. We waited for 20 minutes for a matola to fill up then we climbed on board, stepping over bags of sugar, biscuits, cane mats and seated ourselves on a sack of clothing. We set off down a bumpy dirt road to Cape Maclear. It was a 45 minute drive past a couple of "brick factories" where we could see grey mud bricks drying in the sun. In some areas the grey bricks were piled up in kiln-like stacks with holes underneath to allow for fires for firing the bricks. Some kilns had been lit – the exteriors were covered in mud and the bricks were changing from grey to orange. After being dropped off by the matola we walked along the gravelly beach to the Mufasa Cape Maclear Lodge where we put our camera and laptop on to charge. We strolled along the beach and along the main road looking at some of the crafts stalls. Then we headed back to the Mufasa Lodge for a delicious fish lunch. After lunch we walked along the main street to catch a matola back to Monkey Bay. We got dropped off at the hospital where we managed to get some Coartem anti malaria treatment pills. Back at Monkey Bay, we took a walk down to the swamp near the entrance of Mufasa and saw fireflies flickering on and off above the grass. It was really magical.

After breakfast on Sunday, we walked into town to catch a minibus to Mangochi for the first leg of our trip to Liwonde. On the way into town a guy in a small late model Toyota van stopped and offered us a lift to Mangochi. When we arrived at Mangochi we were swamped by touts trying to find out where we were headed next. Our bags were grabbed out of the rear of the van and a scuffle between rival minibus operators ensued with some punches being thrown. Eventually we managed to retrieve our bags which had been placed in different minibuses and put them into a minibus that was nearly full but we ended up sitting around for almost an hour while they crammed more people and luggage in. Finally the minibus was push/clutch-started and we headed off only to stop a couple of hundred metres down the road to pack a couple of sacks of dried fish on top of our back packs behind our head. When the minibus started again we were covered in a fine layer of white flakes which smelt of fish. We arrived in Liwonde about an hour later and got dropped off in the town after crossing the Shire River. There were no rooms available at the Shire Camp but the owner organised three guys to take us to the Bushman Camp by bicycle. One bike took our packs and we each went on the back of another. Half way there a clapped out 4WD stopped and took us the rest of the way. We arrived at the half constructed camp and checked into the dorm after chatting to the owner, Darren. The dorm had an earth floor and no electricity!! Luckily there was plenty of space as we only had to share it with four Irish medical students. We went for a walk to the river bank which was actually marsh and lagoon with the river proper some distance away. We walked along bush paths seeing lots of signs of hippo and some fresh waterbuck dung. We returned to the camp and had a fabulous dinner at a big communal table with all the other guests and we were munched by the mosquitoes. We had a shower and went to bed to the sound of hippos grunting again.

Week 22 - Namibia - Etosha National Park to Zambia – South Luangwa National Park

On Monday morning we drove straight to Dik-Dik drive as soon as we got up. We saw elephants, impala, springbok and dik-dik. We also saw some giraffe at the Klein Namutoni waterhole as we drove past. It seemed cooler and windier than usual this morning and we could see dust clouds everywhere. After breakfast, we checked out and drove to the Kalkheuwel waterhole. We sat at Kalkheuwel for two to three hours without seeing anything until finally some zebra came to drink. As we left we came across a large lion walking through the veldt towards a small group of lionesses who were resting under some trees. We saw nine females and a cub. As we watched, the lion settled down underneath a tree and then the lionesses started walking out onto the road crossing it in front of us. The cub got left behind and we heard him barking anxiously. We saw him trying to cross the road and keep his distance from the cars that were lining the road. We drove back to Namutoni to refuel the car, then we left the park and headed to Otjiwarongo.

At Otjiwarongo, after returning our car, we put our backpacks on for the first time in weeks and walked to the BP Express station where we had to catch our bus. While we were waiting we saw some young guys turn up in a car, put on some music and dance while they waited for their friend who was inside the station. They were really good with animal movements in the dancing.

We got on the bus and drifted off to a fitful sleep, only to wake in the middle of the night because the temperature inside the bus was arctic. After that we only managed to sleep in fits and starts so it was a long night.

We woke early on Tuesday morning while driving through the Caprivi Strip. The bus stopped at the Namibian customs and we had our passports stamped with an exit stamp then we drove to the Zambian customs a few hundred metres down the road. We continued on into Zambia but only arrived in Livingstone at approximately 3-30pm which was a couple of hours later than scheduled. We walked to Fawlty Towers hostel and checked in before walking into town. We saw a great handicraft market on the main street and beautiful fruit and vegetables on the other side.

The next morning we caught the hostel shuttle to Victoria Falls. At Victoria Falls, we paid our entry fees at the gate and we walked past the baboons to Eastern Cataract were we got our first sight of the magnificent waterfalls with multiple rainbows. Then we walked upriver along the bank of the Zambezi. Then we walked back to rent a raincoat and walked into the "rain" across the Knife Edge bridge and in a circle back to the bridge. The amount of water coming over the edge was huge and the rain and wind was intense in some parts. When we got back to the raincoat shop our shoes and socks were soaked. We walked down a gorge to the Boiling Pot and had some lunch looking up at the main or border bridge. There was a large monitor lizard on the path and it looked identical to the large Australian type. We walked back up and then around the top towards the main bridge but inside the park fence. There were great views of the Knife Edge bridge, the Boiling Pot gorge and the Zambezi coming through the gap in the rock, swirling past the Boiling Pot and then running off under the main bridge. After this we exited the park and walked along the road down to the border bridge where you are allowed to walk half way along the bridge without purchasing a Zimbabwe visa. We had decided not to bother as the Zim visa was USD 30 and then entry to Vic Falls was another USD 30! Also we would have had to purchase a Zambian visa for another USD 50 to re enter Zambia! We saw people bungee jumping off the bridge and took photos of the "You are entering Zimbabwe", "You are entering Zambia" signs. Then we walked back to the Vic Falls Zambian side and caught a taxi back to Livingstone. We walked around town again stopping at the craft market to have a closer look at the amazing wood and stone carvings. The furniture, masks and animals were exceptional with ironwood, mahogany and teak the most beautiful woods.

On Thursday morning we checked out of Fawlty Towers and went to catch a shared taxi to Kazangula so that we could get a ferry over the border to Botswana. Luckily, there was already one person waiting to go to Kazangula when we arrived and within five minutes someone else turned up so we were on our way. The road was really good so the 60 km drive took less than an hour. We went through customs and then walked to the water's edge to wait for the ferry. On the ferry we met some Zambian ladies who were going to Botswana to buy sugar and cooking oil because it was cheaper there. They were also taking sweet potatoes and ground nuts (peanuts) to sell there. On the other side of the river we went through customs (no visa fee for Botswana) and bought enough pula to pay for a shared minibus into Kasane. At Kasane we caught a minibus to the Thebe River Lodge where we checked in and organised a Chobe river cruise for the afternoon and a Chobe game drive for 5.45 am the next morning.

At 3.00 pm, we, together with a couple of tour groups were picked up by a game viewing vehicle and driven to a pontoon at the river's edge where we got on to a large flat bottomed boat. After ten minutes we entered Chobe National Park. The Chobe River is where Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana meet. We spent the next couple of hours circling around an island belonging to Botswana. During that time we saw African darter, water monitor, Nile crocodile, Chacma baboon, African fish eagle, pied kingfisher, white-fronted bee-eater, common impala, elephant, cape buffalo, spur-winged geese, white faced duck, African jacana, great white egret, sacred ibis, hippo, African skimmer, African spoonbill, Egyptian geese and red lechwe (semi-aquatic antelope). The kingfishers and bee-eaters were nesting in holes in the side of the river bank and the impala were licking salt from higher up the riverbank. We enjoyed the spectacle of the herds of elephant playing and swimming and were startled when what we thought was floating debris turned out to be hippos. It was a beautiful sunset over the river and marshes.

We set the alarm for 5.15 am on Friday morning and we had just enough time to pack up most of our stuff and have a cup of tea before being collected for our game drive at 5.45 am. It was a windy, bone-chilling fifteen minute drive in the open game vehicle to Chobe National Park. It didn't get much better after we arrived at Chobe either. We saw elephant, marabou storks (the undertakers), hippos with babies at the river, scrub hare, common impala, buffalo with oxpeckers, lions, warthog, giraffe, vultures, African fish eagle, bateleur eagle, kudu, red lechwe, squirrel, red billed hornbill, and lilac breasted rollers. We had breakfast at Thebe and then caught a minibus to Kazangula for the ferry back to Zambia. We hooked up with Shaun from the UK at immigration and shared a taxi back to Livingstone. We checked into Jollyboys backpacker hostel near the golf course and went on a big walk to Morembo market. Morembo market was a fifteen minute walk past a memorial to Northern Rhodesians killed in WW1 outside the golf course entrance, but it was worth the walk because it was a huge market with all kinds of goods and services including food, clothing, bicycle repairs, household goods, DVDs and anything under the sun. Then we went to the supermarket to buy meat and salad for a barbecue and an apple pie and cream for dessert. Back at the hostel, we cooked up a feast and had a great dinner around the table with some Germans who had cooked an African meal from scratch with a staff member. The apple pie turned out to be an inedible stodgy coconut pie with a soapy aftertaste so we were very disappointed! Especially as we had decided not to buy any chocolate because we thought we had apple pie for dessert!

We got up early on Saturday morning because we had decided to go to the airport early to try to get a standby flight to Mfuwe, the nearest town to South Luangwa National Park. We called Proflight who said that the flights to Mfuwe were fully booked so we caught a taxi into town and caught the 10.00 am bus to Lusaka. The bus was full and the landscape was generally flat scrub interspersed with bigger trees. The dust was constant but once we got past the first hour of road works, the road was pretty good. We came across another bus broken down after two tyre blowouts and reached Lusaka Intercity Bus Station at 5.30 pm while it was just light. We shared a taxi with Drew from Canada to Chachacha Backpackers Hostel where we got a basic room with a shared toilet next door. There was no power point in our room and no phone visible at reception.

On Sunday morning we had breakfast at the hostel then we walked to an ATM to take some money out. A kind South African man gave us a lift to the nearby shopping centre where we went to the supermarket Shoprite to buy some provisions for the next few days. We decided to catch a minibus back to the hostel and we were delighted to see a minibus pulled over on the side of the road in front of us. We hopped in, only to find that the minibus was pulled over because it had run out of petrol. (We were told later that Zambian taxi drivers prefer to keep their money in their wallets not their petrol tanks.) The driver assured us that the minibus conductor who had gone to get petrol was just a couple of minutes away so we waited. The driver kept pointing behind us and saying "Look, he's just here now". After about 5-10 minutes of this, we gave up and managed to flag down another minibus which took us most of the way back to the hostel. Back at the hostel we checked out. Keith called Proflight and found that there were seats available on the 3.00 pm flight to Mfuwe but we had to go to the airport immediately to secure those seats. We caught a taxi to the airport and we were able to purchase tickets for the flight, but then we had three hours to kill. The Lusaka international airport was small and dreary with a couple of places offering overpriced food. We boarded the thirty seater propeller aircraft and landed in just over an hour at Mfuwe International Airport which was even smaller than Lusaka International airport. There we hitched a ride with a Swiss family and the drive to Mfuwe village was beautiful. Small creeks, lagoons, thatched hut villages and vegetable gardens lined the route as the sun set on the Zambian bush. We were picked at Mfuwe by Kathy from Flatdogs and we managed to get a chalet for the first night and a safari tent for the next two. Very lucky and relieved as we had no confirmed booking what with intermittent internet access and uncertainty over our arrival date. As we drove into Flatdogs camp on the banks of the Luangwa river we saw a beautiful brown buck called a puku, several Thornicroft's giraffe, a couple of cuckoo owls, and a couple of warthogs. The camp had a fantastic feel about it as the animals were everywhere even though we were just outside the national park. We checked into the two storey chalet and went for a quick walk on the river bank before dark. We could hear a lot of hippos snorting and grunting loudly at each other in the river. Apparently the elephants have started coming into the restaurant to help themselves which is a bit of a worry.

Week 21 - South Africa - Cape Town to Namibia - Etosha National Park

After breakfast on Monday morning we drove along the coast to Kalk Bay. We spent a pleasant couple of hours wandering up the main street with the beach side train line and quaint harbour full of fishing vessels. We visited a bakery and some shops selling antiques, art, African collectibles and old books. Then we turned the car around and drove along the scenic cliff side drive to Chapman's Peak. We turned inland and drove over the Constantia Nek pass before getting back on to the N2 to drive to Cape Town International Airport. We returned the car to Avis and checked in and then we went to the food court to find some lunch. The food court was really busy and it took ages for us to be served and then get our lunch. We were just washing our hands after lunch when we heard a boarding call for our flight over the PA system. We had only just got through security when we heard them call our names. We managed to jump the queue though passport control and then had to run to the departure gate. We vowed never to do this again!

We arrived at Windhoek Airport and went to Avis to collect our car. We drove along a long straight and largely deserted road into town. On the way we saw a jackal! Thanks to the detailed instructions from the guy at Avis, we found our hostel really easily, checked in (our room was optimistically called "The Ritz") and parked the car in their secure car park.

On Tuesday morning we drove into town. We went to Trip Travel first to organise our seats on the Intercape Bus from Otjiwarongo (where we were returning our rental car) to the Zambian border. This took quite a bit of time as we wanted to get off the bus at Kasane (Botswana) and the bus didn't have an official stop there. Then we went to the Namibia Wildlife Resorts Office to book our accommodation at Etosha National Park. There we were very happy to find out that there was a last minute special and we were able to get a 50% discount on our accommodation at the park. It was already 10.30 am by the time we left Windhoek. We drove out of Windhoek along the B1 – a long straight road through African savannah. On the way we saw a mongoose, lots of warthogs and baboons and three police speed traps. We had lunch and filled up our car at Otjiwarongo and drove the rest of the way to Etosha. Once inside the gate, we had to drive another 17 kms to the Okaukuejo Camp where we were spending our first two nights at Etosha. On the way in, we drove past Maribou storks and a jackal feeding on a leftover kill, springbok and zebra. We checked into our room which was really luxurious and then made our way to the waterhole at the bottom end of the rest camp. When we arrived, the waterhole was surrounded by a herd of elephants with lots of little babies. Hovering in the background were four nervous looking giraffe who didn't approach the waterhole until after the elephants began to leave. They were soon joined by a herd of zebra and a couple of springbok. In the background we could see three dark jackal. It was really magical and we sat there watching for over an hour and a half. We had to tear ourselves away to go back to our room to update our diary before dinner. We had a lovely dinner while we watched Holland defeat Uruguay 3-2. Then we returned to the waterhole in time to see a couple of rhino leaving with elephant and giraffe still around. We stayed a little longer to listen to the night sounds and admire the starry sky before heading for bed.

We woke up early on Wednesday morning and made a cup of tea to take with us to the waterhole. We sat and watched the guinea fowl, zebra and springbok there for almost an hour before heading off to breakfast. It was windy and dusty after breakfast. Back at the waterhole we saw the usual zebra and springbok who were joined by impala, kudu, a wildebeest and eventually some very skittish gemsbok. Then we drove to the Wolfsnes waterhole. On the way to the waterhole, an inquisitive jackal came right up to the car and we saw a Kori bustard – an extremely large bird. At Wolfsnes waterhole we got our first sight of the Etosha Pan. We drove on past some springbok and jackal to the Okondeka waterhole. There were gemsbok, springbok and ostriches around the waterhole and way out in the distance were wildebeest. On the way to the Adamax waterhole, we photographed a small group of zebra with a baby on the edge of the road. We drove past three warthogs (mum, dad and baby) across a small section of the Okahakana Pan to the M'Bari waterhole where we saw zebra, wildebeest, gemsbok, springbok and ostrich. Then we drove back to Okaukuejo to check the game sighting register and the waterhole. Then we drove to Ombiko waterhole near Anderson Gate where we saw two fully grown giraffe. We did a side trip back via Gaseb waterhole and saw a couple of secretary birds furiously chasing a jackal down the road. Further on we were lucky enough to see a male and female lion by the side of the road. We got back to camp and went to the waterhole for an hour where the main entertainment was two adolescent male elephants doing some elephant wrestling. After dinner we went to watch the Germany vs Spain game. At half time we went back to the waterhole. We saw lionesses, rhinos and a herd of elephants with two small babies and various other children in tow. There was also a tiny pearl spotted owl in the tree above us which would fly down to the ground every now and again to catch something in the grass. The rhinos were pretty aggressive and they were happy to butt heads with the elephants. It was really funny to watch the animals interacting. One junior elephant trumpeted, flapped his ears, charged at the rhinos and then quickly ducked back behind the older and bigger elephants. It was the cutest thing that I've ever seen! We saw a lioness unsuccessfully chasing a springbok. When the lionesses approached the waterhole they were chased off by a grumpy hissing rhino. The grumpy hissing rhino actually came right up to the edge of the enclosure and then sprayed right in front of the spectators to mark his territory.

The next morning we spent over an hour at the waterhole watching the steady stream of animals coming for a drink and then went to breakfast. After breakfast, we checked out and then went back to the waterhole. In addition to the usual zebra and springbok herds, we saw gemsbok, kudu and wildebeest. We also saw one very black zebra. We spent a couple of hours there and then headed off to Halali via the Gemsbokvlakte, Olifantsbad and Aus waterholes. On the way we saw a rhino and six giraffes grazing. There were the usual herds of zebra and springbok at Gemsbokvlakte, but at Olifantsbad we saw red hartebeest, impala and a warthog playing in the mud. At Aus we saw five red hartebeest, four female kudu, three warthogs and a impala. On the way to the Ondongab waterhole we came across a group of impala feeding by the side of the road and we were able to drive quite close up to them and get some good photos. We drove to Sueda and Salvadora overlooking vast stretches of flat grey salt pan. We saw Charitraub and Reitfontein and on the road we came across a group of approximately twenty giraffe and got some great photos of them eating and galloping away after another car went past and spooked them. We arrived at the Halali Camp (where we were staying for the next two nights) at 4.30 pm, checked in and walked to the Moringa waterhole in time to see a rhino leaving. It was a very picturesque spot overlooking the small waterhole from the rocks above with the bush stretching as far as the eye could see into the sunset. We saw four nervous female kudu who didn't even drink and a bit later a hunting leopard passed by in the same direction. After dinner we walked back to the waterhole admiring the starry night sky, and arrived just in time to see a rhino leaving and we saw a few scrub hares and an elephant.

On Friday morning we sat at the waterhole watching the entertaining guinea fowl before breakfast. After breakfast we went back and watched kudu, impala and zebra coming down to drink and then feeding in the surrounding bushes. A nervous adult and baby warthog put in a brief appearance. After a couple of hours we gave up and decided to walk up to the Tsumasa Kopje (little hill overlooking the rest camp). We met a couple of Belgian guys who were on the way down and one had a rock in his hand so we asked him if he had found a fossil. He explained it was for protection - they didn't reach the top because they had been scared away by a large cobra which was raising itself, hissing and spitting at them. We continued anyway and thankfully there was no sign of the snake. There were panoramic views of the park from the top of the Kopje which seemed to be made up of volcanic rock slabs. After walking down the Kopje, we collected the car and drove to the Etosha Lookout. The Etosha Lookout was right on the edge of the salt pan and it was the only place where you could actually drive on to the pan itself. It was a flat plain of greenish brown earth which seemed to stretch out in all directions as far as the eye could see. After that we drove along some really dodgy gravel roads to the Goas waterhole. There were the usual impala and springbok and apart from some geese and ducks nothing new. We sat there for a short time and then decided to head back to Halali and the Moringa waterhole. We drove to the waterhole where a couple of black faced impala were sparring in the background. Just before sunset a black rhino appeared and rubbed himself on a tree stump with obvious pleasure. Then he had a drink and ambled off. After that it was only the bubbling noise of thousands of tiny doves and the scrub hare reappeared as night fell. Some people got really excited and we thought they must have spotted a lion or a leopard but it was a giant eagle owl! As we were getting ready for bed we heard a continuous call from the trees outside our room. We went out with the torch to investigate and found a tiny grey bushbaby running and jumping around the tree.

On Saturday after breakfast we saw a pair of black speckled hawks drinking at the waterhole then we checked out of Halali and drove to the Goas waterhole where we saw red hartebeest, impala, springbok and a grey hawk harassing a big eagle. We drove on to the Ngobib waterhole past a herd of elephants who were just crossing the road. We stopped at Ngobib for a while to watch four elephants drinking at the waterhole and nudging each other. As we left the waterhole we came face to face with a large adult male. We stopped the car and after taking a good look, he just walked around us – he was so close we could practically lean out of the window and touch him. It was heart stopping! Then we drove on to the Kalkheuwel waterhole and we were able to get quite close to it. There were two elephants, five giraffes and an impala there when we arrived. We sat there for a while watching elephants, giraffes, zebra, springbok, gemsbok and a nervous warthog arriving and leaving. We watched three groups of elephants taking it in turn to drink from the waterhole and then bathe and splash in the mud bath. This was followed by a liberal coating of dust and a nice back and tummy scratch against the trees and shrubs. From there we drove along a road that was lined with white termite mounds and we saw a baby giraffe and mum on the way to Namutoni Camp where we were spending our final two nights at Etosha. It was a short walk along a boardwalk to our room which was surrounded front and back by wooden privacy screening. Our room was even more luxurious than the ones we had at Okaukuejo and Halali. It had beautiful fittings and a queen bed and a monstrous bathroom with a large bathtub and an indoor and outdoor shower. We walked along the boardwalk passing some grey louries in a fig tree and a large family of banded mongeese on the way to the waterhole lookout near our room. The waterhole was different again with a lush reed-filled centre containing thousands of weaver birds. There was nothing to see so we moved to the white-washed German fort lookout where an elephant was feeding right in front of us and enjoyed a magical sunset. After dinner we went back to the waterhole for a last look before bed. As we sat there four giraffes materialised out of the shadows, they paced up and down for a while and then melted back into the darkness. We heard a whooping call which we thought was hyena but nothing else appeared so we went to bed.

After breakfast on Sunday morning we went back to the Kalkheuwel waterhole. On the way we stopped briefly at Chudop where we saw some zebra, springbok and a wildebeest drinking from the reed filled waterhole. There were weavers in the reeds and we saw a hawk dive into a flock of guinea fowl. At Kalkheuwel, we saw the usual kudu, springbok, impala, gemsbok, giraffe, jackal and zebra. After some time they were joined by five warthogs. Finally our patience was rewarded. We started hearing warning calls from the bush and then a large lioness in fantastic condition turned up to the waterhole to drink. All the other animals disappeared and then gradually returned to the waterhole after she left. We stayed at the waterhole for a couple of hours and then we drove back towards Namutoni. We drove along Dik-Dik drive to the Klein Namutoni waterhole where we saw a flock of vultures circling above a kill but we couldn't get close enough to see what it was. Dik-Dik drive was lined with broken trees and elephant dung. As we drove along we came across a pair of Dik-Dik (smallest antelope in the world - not much bigger than a domestic cat). We drove past Namutoni and across the Fishers Pan which contained quite a bit of water, to the Klein Okevis waterhole. When we arrived at the waterhole, a group of elephants were just leaving and it was surrounded by kudu, wildebeest, gemsbok and springbok. A jackal arrived to drink which spooked them, and they all retreated. However the jackal was soon shooed off by a solitary adolescent male elephant. As we sat there three more male elephants came to the waterhole. We went on to the Groot Okevis waterhole where we saw two kori bustards and some guinea fowl. Then we turned the car around and went back to Namutoni. We passed elephants with babies and giraffe on the way home. We caught sunset at the waterhole and then went for an early dinner so that we could watch the world cup final at the camp site bar.

Week 20 - South Africa - Cape Town

On Monday, we drove to Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. We started off at the sculpture garden which was an outdoor display of African stone sculptures for sale. Then we visited the observatory which contained an unusual selection of succulents, bulbs and other desert plants. It was a beautiful sunny day and we had lunch of sandwiches before spending a couple of pleasant hours wandering through the gardens past the proteas, restios, ericas (heath), fynbos, cycads and aloes. Then we decided that we would do another scenic drive along the coast in the opposite direction to the route that we did on Sunday with Teresa. We started our route back at Camps Bay, then we meandered along the coast road past Clifton, Bantry Bay, and Sea Point. At Green Point, we turned inland towards the centre of town, parked the car and had a walk around town.

The next morning was really dark and cloudy. We drove into town and parked at the secure car park at the Waterfront. Then we walked to Parliament where we found that all tours had been suspended for the duration of the World Cup. We walked around to Green Market Square to see the Dutch Masters in the Michaelis Collection. To our surprise there was no entry fee so we happily donated R20. We walked around the gallery and saw some South African Art but there was no sign of any Dutch Masters! When we asked at the ticket office they told us that they were all in storage! It started raining as we walked to the Castle of Good Hope – a star-shaped fort built by Dutch settlers. The fort contained an excellent Military Museum with a detailed history of the history of the Cape through the Dutch occupation for 143 years, the takeover by the British, the frontier wars, and the Boer wars together with collections of guns and swords. There was also the William Fehr Collection of period furniture and paintings with an enormous dining room upstairs, and the Secunde's House which contained reconstructions of living rooms including a quaint box bed and a display about the Cape Town Carnival. Then we ran across the quadrangle in the rain to have a quick look at the dungeon/torture chamber. We tried to catch a taxi back to the Waterfront, where our car was parked. We managed to flag down a local minibus which dropped us off at the wrong end of the Waterfront so it was still quite a walk to our car but luckily the rain had stopped.

We drove to Stellenbosch to catch up with Sibella who we met in Leh, the capital of Ladakh, the northern state of India bordering Tibet. Sibella lived with her husband Alan and her daughter Juliette in a luxurious house on the De Zalze Winelands and Golf Estate five minutes drive away from the town centre.

After breakfast on Wednesday morning we drove into Stellenbosch and went for a walk around town where we admired the beautiful Cape Dutch style whitewashed buildings lining the streets, saw some bronze sculptures of animals by Dylan Lewis and visited some craft markets. Then we headed out of town towards Franschhoek.

Our first stop was the DeliCATessen at Tokara where we had a delicious lunch. Then we visited the Camberley Vineyard where the affable winemaker chatted to us as we tasted three varieties of his shiraz. Then we had a quick look at the Delaire Vineyard, Hotel and Spa (owned by Graff the jeweller of Bond Street). Sibella had told us that R 500 million had been spent on this vineyard. There were some animal sculptures by Dylan Lewis on the estate and a wonderful Easter Island style head at the entrance.

We drove to Franschhoek and spent a pleasant hour walking up and down the main street past the cafes, shops and art galleries. After visiting the M-shaped Huguenot Monument, we drove to the Boekenhoutskloof Estate (makers of The Chocolate Block, Porcupine Ridge and The Wolftrap wines). We spent a little time tasting some wines and ended up buying a mixed case of wine to send to Tibby and Geoff (half Chocolate Block and half Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc). It took us an hour to drive back to Cape Town through some peak hour traffic as we got close to the city.

We spent most of Thursday indoors doing some research on the next leg of our trip to Namibia and the Etosha National Park and booking a rental car. After a late lunch, we drove to the Cavendish Square Shopping Centre where we bought a Lonely Planet for East Africa and some new sandals for Suzie.

On Friday morning we tidied up and moved our stuff out of Paul and Robyn's room. We had organised to cook dinner for Paul, Robyn and the children and Martin (Robyn's brother) and his wife and children so we had to go shopping for the ingredients for dinner. We spent most of the afternoon cooking up an Indian feast. Dinner was a real hit – everyone seemed to enjoy the food and we had lots of laughs. It was a late bed time as Ghana vs Uruguay went into extra time and then penalties after the infamous hand ball off the line by Uruguay and then Ghana missed the penalty and lost on shoot out. Africa was out of the World Cup.

After lunch on Saturday we went to the train station to catch a train to the city to do the fan walk. All the trains going past were full so we chatted happily on the platform before we activated plan B and drove into town as far as we could, parking close to the Castle of Good Hope. We walked from there through town with the colourful crowds jam packed and vuvuzelas going off everywhere. After a good walk we wandered back to the train station and caught a train back to Mowbray. The train was incredibly crowded and a boy in our group lost R100 when his pocket was picked on the train. We went to Keith's Aunt Neva's house for dinner before going on to Ally and Ann's (Robyn's parents) house where we were staying for our remaining time in Cape Town.

On Sunday morning we drove to Cape Point National Park stopping to take a photo of the cast iron lighthouse at Slangkop. We got into the park and did the Circular Drive down to Gifkommetjie with beautiful views of the coast line and kelp seaweed beds. We drove to the visitor information centre and saw whale bones and an excellent stuffed bird collection as well as the history of shipwrecks off the cape. We drove to Cape Point and climbed up to the small lighthouse with magnificent views of the cormorants on the cliffs, Bellows Reef, and the Cape of Good Hope. We stopped at the cafe and had sandwiches and saw a striped mouse. We left and saw ostrich on the way to the Cape of Good Hope which we climbed as well. We saw a lot of fat dassies and dried kelp on the beach and then saw some baboons on the drive back to the Visitor Centre where we stopped as we had seen a couple of eland nearby. We walked as close as we could and took some photos before leaving very happy. We drove to Simonstown seeing some more baboons on the way and stopped at Seaforth to see penguins. We found some mothers and juveniles under bushes and saw good African artefacts at a craft market at the boulevard.